Once you've got your tools, it's time to set up your sharpening station. Find a quiet, well-lit space where you can work undisturbed. You'll need a flat, stable surface to place your water stones. A low table or bench is ideal. Place a non-slip mat under your stones to keep them from moving during the sharpening process. Have a basin of water nearby for wetting the stones, and a towel for drying your hands and the blade. However the main thought here is that for faster honing clean sharp abrasive is better. For final polishing slurry is better. So adding slurry using a nagura before you start sharpening on a particular grit makes little sense to me especially on coarser grits. On harder finer stones (finishing stones that mimic natural stones for one) starting on a clean stone makes sense to me, then as you work the stone, using a nagura on the ends to even out wear and create more slurry, which you let dry, also makes logical sense although if the stone is softer so that a good slurry develops anyway, why bother with the nagura?

Remember, a katana is more than just a weapon. It's a piece of history, samurai sword, a work of art, and a symbol of the samurai spirit. Caring for it properly is a way of honoring that history and preserving it for future generations. Cleaning the Katana After Sharpening Now that you've prepared your sharpening station, it's time to get down to the business of sharpening your katana. Remember, this is not a task to rush. Take your time, pay attention to the blade, and let the process guide you. You're not just maintaining a weapon; you're partaking in a tradition that has been passed down through generations of Japanese swordsmiths. Hold the blade up to a light source and look along the edge. If the edge reflects light, it's dull. A sharp edge, on the other hand, will not reflect light. Understanding the state of your blade will help you determine how much work needs to be done and guide you in selecting the right tools for the job. Applying the Sharpening Stone The Naniwa Nagura Stones are offered in ten different grits, from 220 to 12000. Naguras are particularly helpful for polishing, so a good approach is to choose a nagura that is the same grit or higher than your finest water stone. For instance, if your finest water stone is an 8000 grit, we would recommend an 8000, 10000 or 12000 nagura.In theory, nothing is stopping someone from rubbing two whetstones together as nagura. This experience though is often fairly unpleasant. The two large stones create a suction between one another which make separating them from one another unwieldy. It does still work though, just be careful should you attempt it. Diamond Nagura A: A sword can be re finished if the original polish is deemed to be of good quality. Shape, geometry and over all it has no deep problems. The decision must be left up to the polisher. If a person is asking for a “touch up” just to save money and is not interested in what is best for the blade again a polisher may choose not to work on that sword. No professional polisher will grind a sword down from the first stones if it is not necessary, I certainly will not. The battle is to remove as little as possible and at the same time achieve the best results for a particular sword. Included #1000 grit stone is your all-purpose stone to sharpen dull or damaged blades, and a #6000 to return that mirror polish and screamingly sharp edge to your blade. ideal for sharpening both German and Japanese style knives, scissors and other bladed tools. Handcrafted Acacia wood base serves as a level surface to hold your stones in place as you sharpen, and as a convenient base for easy storage. A: Any professional polisher can do this but it is an inappropriate thing to do. Because doing this will leave a dip or wave in the sword, plus the refinishing of the rest of the sword will have to be do with only Hazuya and Jizuya. There may be other areas that have very mild staining that may not be totally visible. At best the polish will look just ok. No good polisher will want to associate is good name to that kind of work, only a polisher that has no pride in his work and just wants the money will do this to a sword.

As you glide the blade across the stone, pay attention to the sound and feel of the blade against the stone. It should feel smooth and consistent. If it feels rough or scratchy, you may be applying too much pressure or have the wrong angle. Take your time and remember, it's better to make several light passes than one heavy one. Once you've sharpened one side of the blade, flip it over and repeat the process on the other side. This will ensure a balanced, sharp edge. The Do's and Don'ts of Katana Sharpening Sharpening a katana is only part of the battle. Once your blade is sharpened, it's important to take care of it to maintain its edge and preserve its overall condition. This involves cleaning the blade after sharpening, storing it correctly, and performing regular maintenance. Finally, buffing with a felt or hard cloth wheel and green buffing compound on your bench grinder will give the sharpest edge. Of course an edge this sharp is best for hand paring wood, not hammering away. It should leave a shiny surface on the wood itself if truly sharp. My neighbour often brings me nail-dented dull chisels, used for everything but cutting wood, and I never sharpen it beyond a 400 grit, (too dangerous and a waste of good steel). I used to have several sets from dull to razor sharp in a fine wooden boxed set, but now just keep a basic set for cabinetry and a few sharp but not razor-edged chisels for general household work.

The Do's and Don'ts of Katana Sharpening

But I've been given advice that if the stone absorbs enough metal particles that the resurfacing Stone will not fix that . Don’t let using a jig become a habit for normal sharpening, though. It’s very embarrassing. That would be like using a wheelchair to keep your shoes from wearing out: your shoes will look great but eventually you won’t be able to get around without it. Sooo embarrassing. A dull katana is, quite simply, not a katana. The sharp razor edge itself, the one that can easily slice through paper, is what makes a katana, a katana. The importance of a sharp katana extends beyond its practical use. It’s a testament to the owner's respect for this piece of history and their commitment to maintaining it. Sharpening razor edge of a katana is not as straightforward as sharpening knives, for instance. It's a process that requires patience, skill, and a deep understanding of the blade's structure. However, do remember that every blade is unique and what works for one katana may not work for another. It's important to get to know your blade and adjust your techniques accordingly. This is part of the beauty of owning a katana - each one has its own personality, its own needs, and its own story to tell. Common Mistakes to Avoid Another common mistake is rushing the process. Sharpening a katana takes time, patience, and focus. If you're in a hurry, you're more likely to make mistakes. Take your time, pay attention to the blade, and let the process guide you. Remember, the aim is not just to get the blade sharp, but to maintain the integrity of the blade and to honor the craftsmanship that went into creating it. Best Practices for Effective Sharpening

With artificial waterstones, which are far more common these days, there is of course no contamination that needs to be removed and most people use flattening plates of some sort to keep their stones flat. If you use a diamond stone for flattening and you just let the stone dry with the slurry from flattening on it and you have lots of slurry. In that sense the nagura is obsolete. Cleaning Finishing Stones: Finishing stones always become contaminated with pixie dust and grit from rougher stones. A 10,000 grit stone with 1,000 grit particles mixed in is much less than 10,000 grit effective. If you think a stone is contaminated, wash it well with a scrub brush and clean water then work the surface with a clean Nagura stone to loosen and float up the contaminate particles, then wash off the slurry. The stone will be clean. The katana's blade is made of steel, carefully hand-forged and polished to a perfect mirror finish. The blade's edge, the cutting surface, is the sharpest part, and it's where you'll focus most of your sharpening efforts. The hilt, or handle, is typically made of wood, wrapped in ray skin and silk for a comfortable, secure grip. Recognizing these components is crucial because each part requires different care. The more you understand the katana's components, the better you'll be at maintaining and sharpening your own blades. The Importance of a Sharp KatanaSharpening a katana is a meticulous process that requires a steady hand and an understanding of the blade's structure. The goal is to remove the minimum amount of material necessary to sharpen a katana and restore the edge. This is achieved by maintaining a consistent angle between the blade and the stone, applying even pressure, and sharpening the entire blade, not just the edge. Sharpening a katana involves several basic steps though, each requiring different tools and techniques. While it might seem daunting at first, with practice, you'll find the process of polishing it becomes almost second nature. Remember, the aim is not just to get the blade sharp, but to maintain the integrity of the blade and to honor the craftsmanship that went into creating it. Inspecting the Katana Blade The slurry created on your water stone will be a combination of the grits from the water stone and from the nagura. When pairing a nagura with a water stone, it is typical to choose a nagura that is the same or higher grit than your water stone. For instance, with a 1000 grit water stone, you would use a 1000 grit or finer nagura. While it is possible to use a nagura that is coarser than your water stone, doing so will introduce larger abrasive particles to the stone's surface, making the slurry coarser than what you would get from the stone itself. Maximize the Polish

Wet the Naniwa Nagura by spraying or briefly submerging it. These are splash-and-go, and a long soak is not required to prepare them. Your water stone should also be wet. Once both are wet, rub the surface of your water stone with the nagura. This will create a slurry of abrasive particles on the surface of the water stone to prepare it for enhanced sharpening. Choose from 10 grits Understanding the components of a katana is essential for those who want to learn how to sharpen a katana properly. The blade is the most critical part, and it's where all the sharpening action happens. The blade's surface needs to be treated with care to maintain its razor edge. It's not just about making the blade sharp; it's about preserving the blade's integrity and ensuring it's ready for anything.FULL POLISH” incorrect description: To polish a sword from the course stones to the finishing polish that gives the sword a beautiful and correct appearance to the trained eye of a Japanese sword collector “regardless” of the sword or rust, any other problems or non-problems on a particular sword.