Remove as much as the dust as you can with a dry brush and scraper and see how it looks. If the surface is fairly solid try priming it with a thinned coat of masonry paint. If that goes OK proceed with over-painting. If it’s still loose you may have to seal the areas affected with a stabilising solution – but only as a last resort. A highly penetrative, clear, solvent based stabiliser for use on most exterior masonry surfaces & exterior grade building boards. Use to treat chalky surfaces.

The kind of dust they mean is like a chalk board, where you can wipe your hand over it and it'll be covered. Then it'll reappear again over time. Thin the fist coat so that it soaks into the surface but not so thin that is spatters everywhere. It depends on the quality of the paint how much water you should add but start with a small area first so you judge it. In such cases, I always recommend that the wall is left exposed to weather for at least 12 months prior to painting. Would you ever used a watered down first coat on areas of render that are dry and chalky so have been treated with stabilising solution? With newly rendered surfaces, it is normal to have a certain level of dust and/or powder on the surface as a result of the drying-out process.Below is a sample of questions received on the subject of stabilising primers… White dust on stonework? Furthermore, the stabilising solution and PVA will both act to keep any moisture within the concrete, hence why you experiencing problems. The moisture will force its way out eventually. For larger areas of filler I roughly smoothed over, then again used the paintbrush to texture and blend in the filler. Just scraping over with a knife will leave a smooth area which will show through the paint

One of the essential parts of home decorating is making sure the exterior is fully painted and in pristine condition. Forgot to add that a descent, heavy grade lining paper may do the job and save you from skimming the walls Stabilising solution should also be used when the surface breaks down easily and becomes loose and powdery (also known as chalking). This kind of wall defect is usually caused by weather (specifically wind and excess rain), which is inevitable for most exterior surfaces.Always remember that applying some sort of exterior primer is one of the most important preparatory steps before applying any sort of paint. It provides both an increased quality and adhesion of paintwork, as well as protection to the wall itself. When Should You Use Stabilising Solution? A stabilising solution & a primer serve the same purpose meaning there is no need to apply both a stabilising solution & a primer. When To Use A Primer Or Stabilising Solution

If painting direct onto wall then yeah , prep like mad, 100% if you like and especially if you want a top finish as I don't believe paint hides a lot of imperfections. Sure a Matt finish can help to hide these where as a silk finish will highlight imperfections Whilst you may be eager to repaint the areas where the paint is coming off, chances are, there’s more to come. My advice would be to wait a few months and reassess. At least then the process of removing the paint will be much easier. At that point you’ll want to rub down the entire surface, use a stabiliser and then paint as normal.

Valspar® Trade Stabilising Solution

The white dust is probably efflorescence – moisture in the stonework will draw out any salts and, provided this isn’t excessive, is perfectly normal. Have never been a fan of lining walls & then painting them,all to easy to snag the paper especially if you got kids. Hi there I am going to paint the exterior of my house but was wondering should I use a sealer/stabiliser before I paint ? The house is around 7 years old and has never been painted. I have sprayed all walls with all in one green algae remover & left it for about 3 days & then power washed it all off so the render is good. What do you think? PJ Tools and equipment should be cleaned with warm soap and water immediately after use. Pump sprayers especially should be thoroughly flushed through with warm soapy water and then flushed with clean water until free of all residues. DO NOT allow to dry before cleaning.

Unfortunately, it sounds like whoever painted your home didn’t use stabiliser in the first place. Have you ever encountered lime paint on a ceiling? I’ve tried to roll the ceiling and it’s just pulling off in strips. Will a stabilising solution help? Seals walls that are powdery, chalky or dusty prior to repainting exterior masonry. Stable surface for paint to adhere to. Eventually I repainted with a water based masonry paint. Every year since then the paint has bubbled and I have had to scrape and repaint. I am planning to go over the loose areas with a wire brush and paint scraper. Would you say that it would be best to go over the areas that have the white dust build up with a stabilising solution, as the old paint is very flaky in these areas? When you have removed as much loose material as possible, treat the worst affected areas with a stabilising solution which will bind any reaming loose martial, presenting you with a solid surface on which to paint. Only do this on the very worst affected areas though.Painted a newly rendered wall last year and after allowing drying time, was also a bit dusty / sandy A fine polymer emulsion that deeply penetrate badly weathered surfaces suitable for use on chalky and dusty surfaces and areas were plaster and cement have started to become unstable. Can paint directly on it or wallpaper directly on it, might need lining paper first, if walls are bad. Along with using on chalky or dusty surfaces, stabiliser can also be used on surfaces with high absorption. Some render can be highly absorbent and slightly friable due to the type of sand and mix. So it’s the same as sealing a porous wall.