Since I can easily swap the polarity when installing this is not a big issue but I will have to remember the connector/polarity of the cables will be reversed. All that said, I agree with you in that I prefer a folding suitcase setup rather than one larger panel. This may not always be the case, so it's always a good idea to look at the markings on the junction box or test the polarity with a digital voltmeter. They meet the requirements of the National Electric Code, they're UL certified and the preferred connection method of electrical inspectors.

The second was 3x 410Watt fixed frame panels, with all the charge controllers, circuit breakers and accessories needed. That allows you to plug into both leads of your solar panel and it gives you plenty of wire to get to your destination. I have spent forever analyzing the pros and cons of all the choices involved, from panels to controllers to connectors to wire gauge, to how long an extension to run. Unfortunately I don't think there is ever a perfect answer since it's impossible to know the exact future conditions you will find yourself in. Let's say that the total length of wire needed to go from the two modules to your electrical equipment is 20 feet.only one trip in slushy road salt was enough to degrade the connections, to raise resistance and blow the battery fuse switch repeatedly even tho the CTEK only draws 6a for vehicle charging on CI house battery. If you're asking this question, you've probably noticed that most modern high power solar modules are manufactured with wire leads that have latching connectors on the ends. This solar SAE connector extension cable is10AWG, the pv wire is made with high quality Tinned Copper Wire.

Comes with reverse polarity adaptor - please ensure that the positive and negative from the panel match with the connectors as often the MC4 connectors in particular will be reversed. Whether you've combined your modules with the multibranch connectors or with a combiner box, you'll need to understand how to select and use MC4 extension cables. Easy to use, charge your solar with the adapter cable and for easily connecting to RV solar panels, suitable for most the solar panel kit.If moving sites occurs on an almost daily basis, this is something that will require attention to assure optimum efficiency of the charging system. My thought is to have a short (less than 2ft) wire coming from the controller on the panels as well as coming off the 12V male plug that connects to the trailer.

Do you have one or more high-performance solar modules and would you like to connect them to your solar controller as easily as possible? I cut off the ends of an heavy duty extension cord --- the female end, I attached that to the twistlock which goes to the camper.Depending upon the location of the combiner box, there may be a greater distance from one side of the panel string to the combiner box than from the opposite side of the panel string. I've also read that energy loss is less a function of the connectors and more about distance and gauge of wire.

I don't want to use a polarity adapter at the hub to switch, too complicated and another failure point. This allows me to use the same power cord I use for shore-power between my solar panel and my trailer. Since it is a portable system I intend to babysit it anytime it is in use and much prefer a small, one time, added cost to have the faster charging panels. Naturally, if it is possible to keep SAE connectors together as long as possible there will be less wear and tear to reduce pinch and less exposure to corrosive conditions.If not, I can still add the MPPT controller and just mount it to a board to be placed either in the galley or even propped up on the ground when charging. If you connect two of them in parallel, your total amps would be 16 amps Imp and the voltage would remain at 18 volts Vmp.