Harry Potter HAPOMAGMG Self Stirring Mug, Metal, 450mililiters

£9.9
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Harry Potter HAPOMAGMG Self Stirring Mug, Metal, 450mililiters

Harry Potter HAPOMAGMG Self Stirring Mug, Metal, 450mililiters

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Price: £9.9
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The crescent shape on the front of the enclsoure is a water tank, it also has a Max Fill level marker for your reference. This can be used for the purpose of adding a fog effect to your cauldron with the aid of some dry ice (more on this in the next step). Included with the STL files is the water tank assembly. This consists of a removable tank that has a carry handle to make filling and emptying easier. Just glue the handle bar in place and it can be used to lift the tank in and out.

Fix the motor assembly to the main enclosure, it sits on the shelf supports and superglues in place. The complete code for the PICAXE is provided below, copy and paste this to the PICAXE Editor software and program your chip. If you are new to PICAXE I'd recommend you invest some time in familiarising yourself with it. It's really straight forward and it will revolutionise your projects, opening the door to a whole new world of possibilities. Programming them is easy and PICAXE provide comprehensive instructions and manuals, find out more here. start0: Now that you have the electronics, lights, motor and battery all prepped we are ready to assemble. Included is an exploded diagram of the assembly pieces, you should be able to work out how it all goes together by following the images, but I'll take you through it step by step as well. I printed all of my 3d parts using 50% infill and a 0.1 layer height, but you will get away with a lower infill and a greater layer height. As long as the water tanks remain water tight you will be fine, there is no physical stress placed on any of the parts when in use. The motor has a 5-way connector that simply fits into the header on the driver board, the cable is a little longer than we need but not enough to cause any issues.

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This Instructable uses an etched copper PCB (layouts are provided in the Ible) but feel free to use stripboard. If you've never etched your own PCB before why not give it a go, there are plenty of helpful Instructables. I'd recommend DIY Customized Circuit Board by ASCAS. Ever since I discovered the joys of etching my own PCB I never miss an opportunity to make one, so if you're well practiced you could probably churn out the whole circuit in under an hour. I've included the PCB file as well as ready to print PDFs of the PCB layout. If you're stripboarding I've also provided the circuit schematic for you to follow.

The drive plate assembly consists of two pieces that are glued together. Make sure that the centers are aligned to allow the motor shaft to fit. You may need to use a countersinking tool to make a recess in the base of the smaller plate, this will allow the assembly to slide further down the motor shaft if necessary. To summarise, we have a PICAXE directly controlling the Motor Driver board via four outputs. The PICAXE is then switching a pair of darlington transistors via another two outputs to control the LEDs. We have a switched 4.5v battery source (3x AA's) feeding the PICAXE, the LED strips and the Motor Driver. Don't be fooled by the PP3 connector in the photos, this does not connect to a 9v PP9 battery!! It connects to a AA battery box. For this step you just need to follow the guide in photo three, it connects four PICAXE pins to the Motor Driver header cable that you made in the last step. It uses the following pin configuration:With the release of J.K. Rowling's The Cursed Child and the recent Harry Potter themed Wizarding contest here on Instructables, there has never been a better time to create my first Harry Potter themed project. All I needed was an inspirational idea. Choose one of the three stirring action pieces and slot it onto the drive plate. Line up the four pins and it should slot on securely. If the fit is too tight, use a round file to make the holes on the action plate a little larger. For this I salvaged some cables with 2-way header connectors from a scrap PC (they are used to connect the PC front panel to the mainboard). Cut the cable to around 70mm length (connector included) then strip and tin with solder as shown in the photos provided. Now here comes the fun part, the circuit. To complete this step you will undertake the following tasks: Note: When handling the dry ice always use insulated gloves, it's -80°C (-176°F) and has the potential to cause frost bite.

To create the stirring effect we are using a stepper motor, I've opted for the 28BYH-48. These motors are manufactured in large volumes so they are so cheap they're practically giving them away. They are known for missing the occasional step so not great for high precision tasks, but they are small and provide a lot of torque thanks to its 64:1 gear reduction ratio. You can read more about this motor here. The motor is commonly supplied with a ULN2003 driver, which is perfect for using with our PICAXE. The motor control is covered in more detail in the next step when we program the PICAXE. Drop your completed assembly inside the cauldron and switch-on. To secure it in place I used some self-adhesive velcro strips, this stops the assembly sliding around when the cauldron is moved.As the motor requires more current than the microcontroller is able to handle we need to connect the ULN2003 directly to our power source. You may have noticed that the motor is rated at 5-12v and our battery source is only providing 4.5v, don't worry, it's more than enough to drive the motor. The cables can been hidden in the battery recess below the motor assembly, I used a cable tie with a self-adhesive tie mount to keep them in place. You'll want to take your wooden spoon and remove the spoon-end with a saw, leaving you with just the handle. The stirring action pieces have a cylinder fitting on them designed to secure your spoon handle in place. It should simply just slot-in. If you find that your spoon handle is too large, sand down one end until it fits comfortably but firmly in the holder. For the lighting we are using a SMD 5050 light strip. These are really versatile light strips that are bright, offer RGB colour and can be cut to the desired length. As water is also used in this project I'd recommend getting the waterproof ones. The strips often come in kits that include a controller, you can put that to one side for another day as we don't need it, ours will be driven by a PICAXE microcontroller.

We have to start somewhere so it might just as well be where the magic truly happens, the electronics. This is divided into three main parts, the LEDs, the stepper motor and the circuit. I'll walk you through the three parts individually then we'll bring them all together at the end.

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For anyone who is not familiar with the Self-Stirring Cauldron, it appeared in Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone. It was invented by Gaspard Shingleton and was sold in cauldron shops to assist the owner in the stirring of his or her potions. But of course, you could always use a potion stirring charm. The cauldron also has a choice of three stirring actions, making it suitable for mixing almost any potion. The Cauldron is made up of four main elements, the Stirring Action (we'll be using a stepper motor for this), the Lighting (LED strip lighting) and the visual Fog Effect (here we'll be using dry ice, more on this later) ohh and of course the Cauldron (ideally a witchy type one but you can use anything you can get your hands on, I hear saucepans are all the rage amongst muggles!).



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