Diplomat Chimney Fireplace Flue Heat Exchanger/Hot Air Exchanger, Exhaust Gas Cooler Black, XL Diameter 130 mm, 5 Pipes with Damper

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All of the gaps that are left between my weld tacks will be taken care of later in the instructable. I'm sure it is not impossible to weld a continuous bead around the seam, but my welding skills are limited. Safety would of course be a concern if there was a power cut or failure of the pump, valve or thermostat. There's a ridiculous amount of heat wasted out of it, I don't like that from either an economic or environmental standpoint.

Other than the added cost of the paint/coating - what am I missing in your perspective of "significant investment for a couple more years"? Just looking to find out if those exchanges for water are actually sold or you have to fabricate them because of some government regulations. Chimney stack will be huge and exits at the height of the highest barn we have, the draw on it will be monsterous.We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. Pretty much every design I've seen uses steel piping that has been welded together and because I don't have a welder, nor have I learned to weld. Be careful using to much water to test for leaks, water causes cracked welds because there is hydrogen in water.

From the picture, after it turns 90 degrees (away from the camera), it just goes through the wall and ends. uk/ maybe a good idea to pose your Q there, plus I'm sure I read a thread with pics on what you desire, I think it was bog standard mini/micro bore copper pipe wound around flue pipe?A proper analysis of the combustion will measure those three ingredients plus excess oxygen and the flue gas temperature. Those sloppy mistakes won't fly if I am trying to make, essentially, a perfect weld that is watertight. I could put any number of ports through the heat exchanger, then cap them off on the top with another box that goes to a single larger pipe. That alone -- without any add-ons -- would greatly reduce the amount of heat going up your stack, though it will also require you to clean your flue much more frequently than when it was just a fireplace, unfortunately. If you make the appliance more efficient, ie lower flue gas temperature, the h2o in the gas, will condense and produce water, and rust the appliance, !

I've been kicking around the idea of making an outdoor wood-fired boiler "smoke dragon" for a few years now. My landlord sent someone out to inspect the house, he didn't seem at all bothered by the lack of smoke alarms, more that the place needed repainted (which I said I would do; I've lived here all my life and repainting the place does seem like it should be my job; it has been for nearly 2 decades anyway) and recarpeted; which will be an awful job for the guys who have to do it as the previous "removators" who did the carpeting simply glued one very thin layer of carpet to the floorboards. In regards to the latter point - getting the exhaust ports through the heat exchanger down to a single pipe - the question is how to do that. I could put baffles in, but there woudn't be very many paths for the hot gasses to go up "through" the heat exchanger baffles - only in the one spot. The first (obvious) lesson was that the steel for the tank and the tubes needs to be about the same thickness.Once the bucket was cleaned up, I used an Angle grinder with a fiber cut-off wheel installed to cut the bottom of the bucket off. They are made of stainless steel or black sheet metal, designed in a way that increases the path of the flue gases, increasing the heat dissipation area of ​​your heating appliance. Tapering down the exhaust ports through the heat exchanger to a single port that meshes with the flue would be a ton easier.

Clean with a long handled, stiff bristled brush using soap and water, cleaning solvent, or a commercial soot remover. Then I re-inserted the union into the bucket, with the exchanger core removed, and folded all of the tabs over to hold the union in place. As to material and weight - you are correct on weight adding to the challenge, however I have a couple ideas on how to deal with it. When I was satisfied with the location of the union, I used a paint marker held tightly to the union to mark the location. I've used it for heating truck parts (not the cutting torch assembly though) with a rose bud and welding tips.What about safety devices/flaps to duct the hot gasses away from the coil when the tank is up to temp etc.