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Zoom Tamron - SP 150-600mm F/5.0-6.3 Di VC USD G2 - Compatible frames for Canon, Nikon, Sony

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I found my sample sometimes overexposed, but no worries: that's why there's an exposure compensation button on our cameras. With the new 150-600 G2 super-telephoto zoom Tamron also developed two teleconverters for 1.4x and 2.0x magnification. They don’t fit on the A011 model and Tamron currently lists only their new A022 lens as compatible with the new teleconverter. The TC-X14 converts the 150-600mm f/5-6.3 G2 lens into a 210-850mm f/7-9.0 lens and the TC-X20 converts it to a 300-1200mm f/10-13 lens. The building in the center is about 1km away! And if you use the TC-X14 or TC-X20 teleconverter you can even reach further: On the flip side, when shooting landscapes, corner-to-corner sharpness is more important. NIKON D810 + Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG @ 150mm, ISO 250, 1/500, f/8.0 Following is the comparison with the competition at all focal lengths. If you want to skip this part, head over to the next section about performance at long distances.

Chromatic aberration is distinctly high at 600mm, with strong red-cyan fringing at the edges and corners of the frame. It's not so bad at shorter focal lengths, and is very low indeed at 300mm. Note that while most Nikon SLRs will compensate for this in their JPEG processing, Canon and Sony cameras won't. The following images were taken with the Tamron SP 150-600mm f5-6.3 VC G2 (A022) lens mounted on a Nikon D810 body. The images are RAW files developed in Lightroom 6.6 with camera standard settings, no lens profiles, CA-removal=ON, Noise Reduction=OFF, sharpening=35/0.5/36/10. The individual exposure details are available for each image. The new Tamron G2 repeats its good performance from the test-charts also in the long-distance shots. Up to 400mm focal length its performance is very good in the APS-C/DX image circle and good FF/FX-corners. At 500mm the lens starts getting softer: just a little at 500mm but clearly visible at 600mm. Stopping down to f8 brings only little improvement but heightens the risk of blur from a longer shutter speed. Use f11 or smaller apertures only when you need the larger depth of field because diffraction clearly takes its toll. Sigma made a big splash in September 2014 when they announced two 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Global Vision lenses at the same time, featuring a Contemporary model and a higher grade Sports model. I am by no stretch of the imagination well heeled. And besides that I'm naturally a cheap bas*tard.... so upgrading gear for me is like grinding teeth. Thank gawd my wife isn't into photography but that's another story.

Specs

Equipped with a USD (Ultrasonic Silent Drive) ring-type motor that delivers significantly improved AF speed compared to the previous model The Deko platform is provided by Pay4Later Ltd, t/a Deko which acts as a credit broker, not a lender and does not charge you for credit broking services. Pay4Later Limited is registered in England and Wales (company number 06447333) and is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (register number 728646). For more information please go to www.dekopay.com/support or visit www.dekopay.com. One word of warning: Shooting over a distance of 1km with such a long lens is a very risky business even from a heavy duty tripod whose head alone weighs over 2kg. Extending the lens to its longest focal length and using the lens hood gives every gust of wind a long lever to shake the whole setup in a way that you can easily see in magnified live view – especially when the focal lengths are approaching or even exceeding 1000mm! I switched to 200 ISO to stay on the safe side with short shutter speeds and 320 ISO when testing the lens with teleconverter. Then there is the optical quality of the air between the camera and the target: When the sun warms the ground thermals (bubbles of warm air) can develop which have a different refractive index than the surrounding cooler air and can act like a lens and defocus or blur parts of the image. You can see many instances of partial blurring in these shots. So in evaluating the lens one should concentrate on the best areas in each shot. To make a long story short: I tried to bring you valid shots of the new lens, but take the results with the caveats above. Closest focus distance/max. magnification: 2.2m (7.2ft) / 1:3.9. In my test I could go down to 2.0m / 1:3.5 with manual focusing at 600mm. That’s better than the 1:5 magnification the Sigma Sports or the Tamron A011 achieve with AF and still gives you a working distance of 1.6m (5.3ft). From a focus distance of 5m (16.4ft) the magnification of the new Tamron at 600mm is 1:8.8, similar to the Sigma Sports with 1:9.0. [0]

Ok.....……. as mentioned in the forum, if the Tamron is only 560mm then its a 3.73 to I magnification ratio. And as we have discovered in our Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G VR review, attaching teleconverters on slower zoom lenses is generally not a good idea, since there is a bit too much of sharpness loss / image degradation, or even potential loss of autofocus capability. Thus, the Tamron 150-600mm f/5-6.3 is a rather unique lens in this group, which is why our team at Photography Life has been anxious to get a hold of the lens for a while now. In general, most wildlife shots feature the animal somewhere around the center of the frame, not in the corners. Hence for wildlife I would tend to favor a lens with superior sharpness in the center of the frame over one with less sharpness in the center but better corner-to-corner sharpness. NIKON D810 + Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6 @ 380mm, ISO 500, 1/1600, f/6.3 Above from left to right: Nikon 200-500mm, Sigma 150-600mm Sports + Contemporary, Tamron 150-600mm A011 With post-processing it still looks mediocre, but pretty typical of the results I got with this combo. At best I got results like this: NIKON D810 + Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6 @ 700mm, ISO 800, 1/800, f/10.0More field testing showed that the corner sharpness starts falling off noticeably from about 60 feet from the subject to infinity. Tami and Sigi both beat Niki at long distances with Tami the best at infinity and Sigi better at 60 feet. NIKON D810 + Tamron 150-600mm f/5-6.3 @ 500mm, ISO 125, 1/500, f/8.0 However, that's exactly what's happened. The third party manufacturers have solidly filled a niche that the big two lens manufacturers have yet to fill. I shot Niki with the Nikon TC14III 1.4x teleconverter on a D810. The results were nowhere near as good as the Nikkor 500mm E plus TC14III, but if I work the better files in post and add sharpening I can get results I’d consider good for web use, but not acceptable for demanding print or publication uses. NIKON D810 + Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6 @ 700mm, ISO 400, 1/640, f/8.0 Lateral Chromatic Aberration (LatCA) is moderately apparent in both of these lenses, though correcting the issue in post processing is typically quite easy.

I do this for a living, so I only use camera-brand lenses since the price of a lens doesn't matter because I use it every day. See Is It Worth It. I believe, if your using a camera that reveals very well like the D850 or Z7 then Nikon on Nikon is best, same with Canon on Canon, and I found when using the A9 and Sony glass, Sony on Sony was best, especially on super high res sensors, if your on a D7000 D7100 etc its not going to matter as much if you know what I mean. However, the Sports lens' vignetting is more gradual and encroaches farther into the center of the frame compared to the Contemporary lens (which has sharper falloff around the edges).

Nikon AF-S 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR Advantages

The new G2 (A022) model also outperforms the older A011 model in the APS-C/DX- and FF/FX-corners at every focal length except 150mm and 600mm where both lenses look almost identical. This may be due to less field-curvature from the added lens element in the new model. There’s an interesting side-effect of mode 3: when the viewfinder image is not stabilized one tends to practice a better and more stable hand-holding technique because you can easily see how bad you shake otherwise. I commend Tamron on being so bold to forfeit stabilization of the viewfinder image completely in mode 3. If you don’t like it you can simply use mode 1 or mode 2. Distortion is low, which again is normal for a full frame lens on APS-C. There's a little pincushion distortion at all focal lengths, but it's unlikely ever to be a problem.

While the Tamron may not be at its best at 600mm, none of the other lenses we're looking at reach that long at all. So to make a fair comparison, we have to look at how they match up across their shared focal length range. For example, in these tests the Sigma 150-500mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM is no sharper at 500mm than the Tamron is at 600mm. Meanwhile Canon's ageing EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM simply can't keep pace with the Tamron's far more modern optics; it's simply not as sharp when compared like-for-like on the EOS 7D. All three lenses exhibit an equivalent amount of focus breathing, meaning when focused at nearby images, the image magnification decreases from what it theoretically should be at a given setting. Here’s a screen shot comparing the field of view of my Nikkor 500mm prime to one of the supertelezooms. Loads of air is pumped in and out as the 150-600mm zooms. All that air has to go someplace, and so it's pumped in and out of your camera body, and you may have some air blow out of the eyepiece into your eye. Tami nails this Crested Caracara shot: NIKON D810 + Tamron 150-600mm f/5-6.3 @ 600mm, ISO 500, 1/1000, f/9.0 So there’s little advantage to a fixed aperture in this case and Sigi and Tami are faster at their wide ends than Niki. Bottom line – I wouldn’t worry at all about one being fixed and the other two not. 3) Why Not Primes?Let’s have a look at the theoretical performance of the new lens (first pair of MTF-charts) at the wide and the long end first and compare it to the performance of the Sigma Sports (second pair of MTF-charts) and Tamron’s A011 model (3rd pair of charts): Like Niki, corner to corner looks better at shorter focal lengths, especially when stopped down, but even the four shot pano of clouds over the Organs earlier shows softness in the corners. Park Cameras Limited is a credit broker, not a lender and is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FRN 720279). We do not charge you for credit broking services. We will introduce you exclusively to finance products provided by Duologi. The biggest concern is that although it ought to work great today, it is much less likely to work on whatever Nikon or Canon you buy 8 years from now.

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