Manrose 100mm Standard Mixed Flow Fan

Product Information

Genuine Manrose branded product. High quality ball bearing, long life motor, continuously rated and warranted for a minimum of 30,000 hours or 3 years

And re-visiting my mention of the bigger more beefy fans, would it be wise/sensible to go for 150mm ducting and then use a reducer if I can resurrect the current 100T. This particular model; the MF100S is the basic On/Off version. It can be paired with Manrose 1361 remote humidistat and Manrose 1350 speed controller. Key FeaturesTimes I have been up in the loft, I can feel by weight and noise that a lot of water sits in the ducting, far from ideal. High air flows are achieved through flexible duct. Compact overall dimensions. 3 speed fan settings, selectable at installation Silent operation - Noise is reduced due to the extractor fan being installed in ceiling voids or in the loft The MF100S inline fan is fully BEAB approved, building regulations compliant and has is IPX4 rated. Manrose MF100S Features That's how it stands currently, the red pairs of lines are the current ducting - he decided to duct to the side of the house, I am proposing switching to the front, but joists might make it as sensible to go to the same side.

Fitted with a high quality ball bearing motor, MF100S is continuously rated and guaranteed for a minimum of 30,000 hours or 3 years.

You may also need

Easy installation and maintenance with the fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using the specially designed construction I'm also wondering if I should try and insulate it from the joists somehow, maybe mount a piece of wood on some foam that goes onto the joists, and then mount the fan onto the piece of wood that bridges between them? hope you don't mind me resurrecting an old thread, but I have an MF100T that has just stopped working. The only negative I can see might be noise, in that the fan will be directly above the shower (Currently it is above the landing cupboard), BUT while the shower is on you won't hear it, and hopefully if it's way more efficient I won't need to have the timer at max for 25 minutes, perhaps 10 would do.

Total distance should be radically reduced anyway, and there should be no turns apart from necessary ones, into the fan and out of the house, although I am thinking to mitigate at least the one out of the house by just using a 45 degree elbow, and then cutting the pipe going out at an angle to give a flat exit if that makes sense. Fan performance is generally quoted with the fan mounted in free space, with no ducting. The performance degrades rapidly as restrictions to flow are added, the worst thing being the stretchy 4” duct. Not only does it have not much area, but all those ribs create turbulence that further restricts the effective area. And the grills are often restrictive too, especially after a few years of use when the insect grills in them will be clogged up with fluff.We're also thinking about cutting a new hole in the ceiling (Filling and patching up the old one) where we actually want it, and then common sense would tell me that it would make sense to have the fan on the nearest joists on the way to the outside - I think we would swap to the front soffit as that is the closest by some margin. Easy installation and maintenance with the fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using the specially designed construction.