Dodo Super Liner 6mm (1/4") Roll Vehicle Insulation & Sound Proofing, 3sq.m (32sq.ft), Self Adhesive

Product Information

I started with the thermal liner which came on a 10-metre roll and I used a tape measureto roughly work out the size I needed for each panel and cut this with my heavy duty scissors. Once I had a smaller piece to work with I found the best technique was pushing the thermal liner into the curved corners, bending it down then cutting to create the shape. Again, this didn’t need to be perfect but I was aiming for maximum coverage. And when I added the ThermaWrapas part of phase two of the insulation, I bought two rolls of insulation (600 mm x 7.5 m) as I planned to use elsewhere for my window cover. I used about two-thirds of one roll and I also bought two rolls of tape (50 mm x 20 m), I wasn’t sure how much I’d use but it turned out it was less than one roll foil. My original plan for the ceiling insulation was the thermal liner and that was it. But after using the van on a couple of overnight trips I noticed how bad the condensation was in my van particularly on the ceiling where the exposed metal was collecting droplets of water.

These items needed for fitting the sound deadening sheets, one of the easiest jobs to get you started! The Dodo Mat Super linercame as a 6-metre roll, measuring 500 mm wide, therefore covering a total of 3 metre squared. I’d roughly in my head thought it would be enough, but in reality it came up a little short for my van. In hindsight, my van measures 2.5-metres x 1.3 metres so I failed on the maths there! Here is what I used to insulate my van walls, floor and ceiling. I’ll do a breakdown of what I used for each part of the van but here’s the overall list. To prevent cold air being drawn up from under the van, a layer of closed cell foam underlay will help insulate the floor while keeping the profile low to allow ply and side steps to be refitted. The foam will also prevent the ply from "creaking" and act as a floating layer.Use a special formulation closed cell foam with excellent thermal and acoustic properties. Ideal to reduce noise, insulate the vehicle and to isolate barriers and trim panels.

Your van is essentially a metal box! Metal conducts both heat and cold, therefore when it’s cold outside your van will mirror the temperature. I started staying in my van during March in the UK, I had temperatures of minus 6 at night, maybe colder and I can confirm that insulation made a HUGE difference. I woke up one morning with ice inside my van on the exposed metal sections, but the insulated areas were a normal temperature to touch by hand. What did I use to insulate my van? My van is a medium sized van, long-wheel based, approximately 2.5 m long by 1.4 m wide and 1.4 m high, to help you visualise and compare to your van. I’d read that it was best to fit the super liner width ways as it’s easier to fit over the bumps in the floor instead of doing length ways. This was good advice, I could see how doing length ways would be really awkward. For the stage 2 product we recommend having a measure up to determine the correct amount needed. We suggest applying this like a blanket, covering 100% of the main panels. Quantity will vary most for this layer depending on van windows, pop-tops etc.I put one full sheet on every single panel inside the van, minus the two panels that I’d since had windows fitted in. For the wall panels, this was 4 on the side panels, 4 on the side doors and 1 on the barn doors, so a total of 9 sheets used. I fitted mine on a warm day and rubbed my hands over them to warm them up. Sound deadening sheets + roller to secure in place Was 30 sheets enough for my Vauxhall Vivaro Mk3? When installed in your vehicle Dodo Super Liner will act as a thermal insulating layer to help stabilise vehicle cabin temperatures through the year. Foam spray looks like it would be great, getting in every single small gap but after watching a few YouTube videos I decided it was not for me, in fact, many people do opt for a professional foam spray job because it’s really that messy. Closed cell foam based products are the ideal choice for insulating a campervan. They are waterproof and are applied directly to the metal panels. This direct application means they act as moisture barrier, insulation and soundproofing in one clean low profile layer.

The instructions within the box suggest up to 50% of each panel is covered and for areas that have more noise, for example, the wheel arches they have 100% coverage. I adopted this suggestion (sort of).

Dodo Super Liner

For the ceiling of my Vauxhall Vivaro Mk3 I used approximately 2.5-metres of thermal linerinsulation, less because I was filling the panels in the ceiling and not covering the entire area. Total = 2.5 m2 Here I’ll explain which insulation I used for each part of my campervan, mission, to keep ‘Dennis’ lovely and warm 🙂 Campervan Sound Deadening It’s worth getting good scissors for this job, I bought these large heavy duty scissors and they’ve turned out very handy. I made a couple of cardboard templates for awkward sections, but the rest I just filled the gaps with all the off cuts. It’s not a perfect finish but as regards to sound deadening it worked! Campervan Insulation Do you need insulation in your van?

I also researched that you needed to measure and cut extra to allow for the bumps, I added about 30 mm to my first measurement, which was slightly too but but better being that way than too short. Use on all metal panels up to 50% coverage for most cost effective results, or 100% on outer panels for a fully comprehensive job. This product can be used on any metal panel in your vehicle, with the most common areas to treat being the sides, wheel arches, roof and bulkhead. You may also add deadening to the floor if required, however the floor pan generally suffers least from vibration issues and will use a lot of extra material. Recommended products for this stage: 2 x Dodo Super Liner Rolls or 2 x Dodo Dead Mat Duo Rolls Optional Stage 3 - Floor There’s an abundance of information about the best insulation for campervans out there, so a lot of my choices were based researching what was right for me, based on my skill level for fitting and also my budget available.Before I fitted my sound deadening and insulation I opted to have two windows fitted by a professional to my van, I’m glad I did these before the insulation as metal filings can get everywhere and although Sarah did a fab job of cleaning up afterwards it was made more sense to do it this way round. You can see my windows being fitted in my last post on removing the panels and bulkhead (scroll to the bottom to see the windows going in).