Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Yriel Yellow

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Mini, my actual pet cat by Dan “The Sex Cannon” Boyd Mini, acrylic on canvas. Dan Boyd circa 2012 The reference photo of Mini in her natural habitat: getting caught in something and screaming at me until I let her out. Recess shade with Army Painter Soft Tone ( GW Seraphim Sepia is a bit too yellow for this though, so you may want to mix it with a bit of Agrax Earthshade) Optional) This step is difficult to explain but basically, I shade the model using VMC Goldbrown. I do a mix of glazing, and recess shading and in some places straight layering. VMC Goldbrown is an ever so slightly darker but less opaque version of VGC Heavy Goldbrown so doing this results in a much less flat model. Using the dry brushing technique (shown here in-depth), I apply an even layer of Yriel yellow over the entire model to smooth out the splotchy base coat on the raised open surfaces. Dry brushing yellow paint takes care of the uneven base coat surfaces on the shoulder armor and leg armor plates.

Our readers might be surprised to learn that not all painting is done on models! I painted this picture of my beloved yet troublesome cat, Mini, at a “drink wine and paint stuff” event hosted by my employer in what I think was the Spring of 2012. This picture was taken in the Summer of 2011, when Mini was still a wee kitten. In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. Today we take a look at the Craftworld Iyanden, a craftworld devastated by Tyranid Hive Fleets and whose forces now consist more of the dead than the living.This bonded pair of Squigs found their way into my home when I got a box of Zarbaj’s Jitz with my Adepticon swag bag last year. The two have been inseparable since I adopted them, only leaving each other’s side to maul whatever poor fool decided to get too close to their territory. My paintscheme for Zarbaj and his Jitz involves a lot of purple and yellow, so I forewent the typical reds and oranges you see Squigs come in, and went instead for a pinkish purple. I think it’s pretty fashionable. The literature around Eldar is surprisingly thin for a faction as old and integral to the 40k storyline as they are. You can read more about Prince Yriel in Valedor by Guy Haley, which covers Yriel’s attmepts to stop two Tyranid hive fleets from merging into one megafleet and his uneasy alliance with the Drukhari. The follow-up novel, Wraithflight, follows the wraith fighters of Iyanden taking on the Tyranids of Hive Fleet Leviathan. Guilliman Blue in the runic design (as this color is no longer available, you could make a custom glaze using a 2:1 mix of Lahmian Medium and any blue)

If you missed a spot, you’ll notice some underlying primer peaking through. Take your brush and repeat step #2 with the Yellow Contrast Paint. But, only apply it to the missed spot.

Paint Comparison Chart

Reikland Fleshshade wash all over the skin, including the mouth where we’ll just leave that shading as is

This poor cat was left abandoned when the nice old lady who owned her became destined for some kind of horrible giger-esqe kitbash. She was found wandering in the desert, so I gave her the forever-home she deserved. Final edge highlights step. The gun gets some edging with Mechanicus Standard Grey. The tabard gets an edge highlight of Altdorf Guard blue.

#ffda00 foreground

But, I suppose now I’m relying on a new product…As you see with Citadel Contrast color, it speeds up the first base coat process by allowing you to apply it straight from the pot everywhere. Fire Dragon Bright, at the very sharpest corner of the inner edges of the eyes, lowest corner of a round lens

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf The T’au Empire: The T’au Empire is a faction of xenos known for their advanced technology and use of drones. Yriel Yellow can be used to paint the drones and machinery of the T’au, as well as the energy fields that surround their weapons. This color can also be used to create a color scheme that mimics the color of the T’au’s battlesuit. When you dry brush, this an opportunity to highlight surfaces. By adding more yellow on top of those raised surfaces, you are adding contrast. The recesses remain dark with a good dry brush. This dichotomy between light and dark adds to the overall “pop” of the model.My tip here would be to apply your next coat of contrast color with a small pointed round brush (like a #0 or #1 size) that has stiff bristles. This will give you more control in smaller places on your model. Sure, you won’t cover as much surface area in a single application, but you’ll reduce the risk of making a mistake paint somewhere you don’t want to. Alright now we’re talking. I’ve applied a couple of very thin coats of Yriel Yellow, working toward as uniform a color as I can get. I’m much more happy with this bright look, and some of the undercoat edge highlights are still providing subtle effects. What you’re looking for in your first coat of primer is a very smooth surface. The smoother your early priming layers, the easier it will be to paint the rest of the model. Make sure mold lines are removed and you don’t create any bubbles in your primer. Yellow is already a flaky, unreliable color. Don’t add to your troubles with a poor primer foundation.