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Posted 20 hours ago

Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement, 40ml

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
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Of course, it is not always possible to do it this way but the method works fine for fuselage halves which are sometimes prone to this problem. A widely popular glue among modellers, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Quick Set will help you work quicker than ever!

The next day, I noticed that the glue had not dissolved or bonded the plastic pieces and was still liquid. The difference is only in the proportion of components for the glue 50% to 50% for the cleaner 49% to 51% (as far as I can remember, but I may be wrong - the memory can malfunction), as for me 1% is not a very big difference.This quick setting solution dries around four times faster than the original Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, saving you plenty of time holding your parts in place!

The cement cuts the amount of time used in constructing models, and has the advantage of a cleaner finish.Yes, the parts will stay glued together after within seconds of application but it takes much longer to form a strong bond. The original Extra Thin cement usually takes a couple of minutes to set and hours to days to completely cure. All you do is place the two parts together, and then dab a little bit of Extra Thin glue into the joint, and it works like magic, creating a strong bond without any mess.

The applicator makes it easy to apply to even the smallest pieces and it dries so quickly you won't be sat there holding two pieces together forever. This is due to the fact that the cement essentially melts the plastic and the parts fuse together once the chemicals evaporate.In an earlier discussion on this forum not too long ago, we were talking about the ingredients of Tamiya cement. All these people mixing different chemicals together with no knowledge of what might happen worries me immensely. Mixed them and tried them firstly to join some plastic pipe and then to fix together some kit parts. The difference comes from those like Tamiya S, revel contacta, that work as solvents, dissolve The surfaces which are welded together as the solvent evaporates. I changed to this glue from a tube variant because that glue was too thick, I couldn't control the amount coming out and it was seeping out of the joins.

With traditional liquid cement, you would apply the cement to a part and then you would attach it where it belongs. You’ve just taken one more step to being a proper modeller Everybody spills liquid cement at some point — you can try to minimise the chance by using squat, square bottles and stands for them (or velcro, or Blue Tac, or anything else that helps keep the bottle upright) but you will at some point. Last week, because my bottle of it is running low, I did a bit more digging and found a material safety data sheet claiming it to be 50% butyl acetate and 50% acetone. Stick a piece of the softer part to all the base of bottles of Tamiya etc including bottles of Mr Surfacer.And it means I’ll have a supply of it any time, instead of having to pause building a model because the glue has run out. I personally prefer the Quick Setting version because the original sometimes takes too long to cure and therefore is prone to cause ghost seam lines if the model is assembled too quickly. Inevitably there are different products and approaches and what you have here is what I do – just my take although I have to say it stands me in very good stead for all the modelling tasks I have to tackle. Furthermore, the extra thin formula allows the modeler to glue together small pieces that require pin point accuracy and finesse.

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