Games Workshop - Citadel Colour Layer: Calgar Blue (12ml) Paint

Product Information

These too are reproduced from my Primaris Marines scheme. It’s almost like I painted these first and carried over a lot of the techniques! Desert: Base coat is Wraithbone, camo elements are XV-88 > Seraphim Sepia > Ushabti Bone > Screaming Skull Emma: Baal Red is a pure, bright red. It’s versatile and easy to blend with other Contrast paints like Magmadroth Flame. I have used it for gemstones, armour plates on Orks , and plasma effects on Chaos Space Marine weapons. Emma: Such a rich, vibrant teal colour! It’s perfect for Seraphon and many other models – I have even thinned it down to make a spooky verdigris for Grand Alliance Death models.

Here’s a god-tier example from Reddit that shows this technique in action (although note the painter uses multiple edge highlight colors, just not on the camo areas). Look at the edges on the Bolter — they’re all tan, and it’s amazing. Ditto this Warhammer TV video, where Duncan uses a single tan to drybrush the entire tank, including the camo sections that aren’t brown. Author’s Note: I do not 100% copy the colors outlined by ‘Eavy Metal, but as you can see from my pictures they are basically a match. Feel free to use either color scheme, and just focus on my tips for applying progressively lighter edge highlights. You’ll notice that in the above picture steps 4-6 are merely described as “edge highlight” which doesn’t convey the differences in each step. Scrubland: Base coat is Zandri Dust, camo elements are Deathworld Forest > Seraphim Sepia pin wash > Ushabti Bone > Wraithbone (note this is a base paint) Clean up the edges of the secondary color if needed (streaks an imperfections will look off at this scale).Emma: Regally vibrant, Luxion Purple keeps a bright tone even in the darker areas of your miniatures – great for Hedonites of Slaanesh and the Emperor’s Children . This is my favourite purple Contrast of all time! Unless otherwise noted, layers are edge highlights. The top layer is applied much more sparingly, only to the high points and edges.

And there’s more – all Citadel Colour Shades have been reformulated to make them even better, seven more have been created, which we’ll be taking a look at next week. Plus, we’ve also perfected white spray paint, making it easier than ever to undercoat your miniatures. C. Pinning (keeping your dirty nerd hands from ruining your work): For this you want some paperclips and wine corks. What you then do is drill a VERY SHALLOW hole into a non-visible part of the model like the bottom of a foot, gun barrel, or connection point and then use a small amount of super glue to attach a clipped piece of paper clip to it. You then suspend the assembly upwards by push the other end of the paper clip into the cork. Emma: This paint has a lovely jade-like tone, which is really intense and vivid. I love using it over Stormhost Silver on gemstones or thinned down for a different take on crystal blades than the usual blue.

Final Thoughts

I like the brightness amd brillance of the blue.. but like most people, I dont think I have the patience to do proper edge highlighting. So what im thinking for the main armor is.. Iyanden Yellow and Nazdreg Yellow were a dream for painters when they first dropped – easy-to-achieve yellows in one coat! Bad Moon Yellow provides an even brighter choice, especially over a White Scar undercoat. Any time you’re using transfers, weathering powders, or just painting over metal, you should varnish. Hell, you should probably do it on plastic models too. Varnish everything. I use Citadel’s Munitorum Varnish. Smarter Goonhammer writers than I have written many words on varnishing. Once you have this coat down, your models should be ready to go!