sourcing map 1/2" Drive x M14 (14mm) Triple Square Spline Bit Socket, S2 Steel Bits, CR-V Sockets 2" Length (for Hand Use Only)

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The simple fact of the matter, however, is that there are so many different options that it can become confusing.

Triple Square Vs. Torx Drill Bits: What Are The Major Triple Square Vs. Torx Drill Bits: What Are The Major

com/pd/Capri-Tools-30037-14mm-XZN-Triple-Square-Bit-Socket-with-1-2-in-Drive/1002327126" on this server. We are registered with the Information Commissioner, registration number ZA187892, it details the purpose for which we process personal data.Triple square drives are used in high torque applications, such as cylinder head bolts and drive train components. These instructions are provided as-is with no implied warranty or guarantee that they are accurate or correct. If you have a German vehicle and plan to do your own work, pick up a set of triple square bits first because they will come in handy at some point.

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They're known by the Americans as "Triple Square" or VAG as ZXN and are used as they can handle higher torque before camming out. Also, I found a very useful video of the procedure that will also augment this thread, and thought I'd post a link here. Your problem will be unless you have a ramp you will find it extremely difficult to get any torque on it. If triple square was the preferred choice of fastener head in every vehicle, triple square would be the definitive pick. While Torx can be used for construction applications, triple square is pretty much exclusive to the automotive world.So far I have replaced the driver's axle (see other posts relating to that) because it was nearly bone dry from leaking, the front passenger wheel bearing (I thought it was this at first making the noise), and now the rear passenger bearing. For automotive needs, that means things like drive train components and cylinder head bolts which can be tougher to remove than other components.

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It's worth noting that I was unable to discern any obvious play, even when trying to rock it from the edges of the tire.

The clues that led me to suspect the bearing instead of a feather tire were the following: the noise almost disappeared when I turned to the right and unloaded the bearing (it was the right rear), changing the tire location or putting a known good tire on that corner didn't change the volume or location of the noise, and the tire itself didn't appear to be worn in any way that should cause noise. Also, my old bearing was bad enough that the inside inner race stayed on the stub, separating from the caged ball bearings and outer shell.